I’ve been re-engineering the collection a bit over the last couple of weeks, and this lovely Speedmaster Mk II with a racing dial arrived this morning, having benefitted from a full service and a re-lap over at Watch Works in Bristol. I owned one of these a year or two ago, but that one had a replacement dial and handset; whilst it was photographic heaven I wasn’t happy with the fact that it wasn’t all-original any longer. Conversely, this one is absolutely perfect for me.

It wasn’t cheap but it’s such a nice example. Strangely – or perhaps not so – I got more comments and compliments when wearing the Mk II than with any other watch (I think it was a close thing with the Silverstone, but apart from those two my wristwear has gone largely unnoticed). I missed it a lot so I’m glad to add another, and anticipate wearing it a lot.

A couple of shots…

And now on a Di Modell Rallye with orange stitching…

I saw a photo of an old pre-moon Ed White today, and it reminded me how much I love the old Speedies. This one (an ST145-022) is a little newer, dating from 1971 and therefore having the usual moon landing references on the caseback. However, it’s still a very beautiful thing and having popped the Omega alligator strap back on it I’m loving it even more.

I loved this 1971 Speedmaster long before a rather lovely vintage 1171 arrived for it in the post today; I now love it even more. Could anything be more beautiful?

I’ve had three of four Speedy’s in the past – all very modern, or relatively modern, variants. I think the oldest was from 1991 and whilst it was my favourite of the bunch (it really did have a lovely patina to the dial) it wasn’t enough to make me miss it that much when it went. In fact, every time I’ve discussed the Speedy with anyone I’ve always heard the same thing; something along the lines of “it’s got to be a stepped dial”. I’d seen them in photos and they looked pretty good, but when a friend on TZ-UK listed his – an ST145.022 from 1971 – it made an immediate impression because it also had the most lovely faded insert (actually, it didn’t hurt that it was fresh from a service, either). It really did seem like too good an opportunity to miss, so I pounced and was lucky enough to be the first in line.

Now, I’m not an expert when it comes to the Speedmaster but I think I’m right in saying that this reference followed the transitional model (the 145.021?) which featured an applied logo and a slightly different chrono hand (the bottom wasn’t flat like this one). Aside from that, I believe that both had the calibre 861 movement and in all other respects were pretty much the same. Well, obviously the pre-moon had a different caseback…

Anyway, I’m really blown away by this watch, and think I understand what everyone’s been telling me now. There are Speedy’s, and then there are Speedy’s.

I popped on my 1969 Seamster 60 this morning, and almost immediately one of the (original, 40+ year-old) spring bars broke. It had been on a tropic rubber strap, but because I was less than ecstatic with that combination and I want to keep the (again original) bracelet in unworn condition I had to find another 19mm strap in my box of bits. Luckily I had a Camille Fournet black alligator that will do for now, but in an attempt to bring out the deep blue of both the dial and the Bakelite bezel I’ve also ordered a navy sharkskin from the Di Modell range.

I’m not 100% sure that I’ve cracked it yet, to be honest, and – whilst this isn’t really a blog that attracts a multitude of comments – should you stop by and have any ideas for an alternative please leave a comment and let me know.

This is the cultprit…

Having looked for the right SM300 for ages and then given up the ghost, I was really smitten by the Seamster 60 (ref 166.062) that was listed on TZ-UK’s SC recently. With box and punched papers from 1969ish, it proved to be irresistible and it’s now on my wrist with a nice Tropic strap and the mint bracelet still in the box.

It’s a very wearable size at 37mm, and that’s without a relatively large crown (in fact, this reference has been dubbed the “Big Crown” and you can see why from the photos). It has a deep blue dial and a similarly coloured bakelite bezel – both in fantastic condition – and houses a 24 jewel calibre 565 automatic movement; it doesn’t hack, but the date is quick-set and operated by pulling out and releasing the crown to advance by one day at a time. Water resistance was originally 60m but this one won’t be going swimming any time soon.

I think I’m right in saying that they were only produced from the late 60’s to the very early 70’s so they’re few and far between compared to most other Seamaster models. That aside – what a gorgeous watch!

Oh, Speedy, why do you call to me?
What makes you so very nice?
I’ve worn you now on consecutive days
Not once, not twice but thrice.

Some say the time is hard to read,
That your dial is slightly cluttered.
To them, I say just open your eyes
Because it’s clear to me they’re shuttered.

Your tritium dial, and snow white hands
To love you takes not persistence.
But if you were to be the perfect watch,
You’d have a higher water resistance.

😆 😆 😆

Recently, I decided to replace the Speedmaster Professional I flipped a few months back. In my mind, I knew exactly what I wanted; an early to mid-90’s late tritium dial, perfect case and complete package. The tritium would need to be dark, though, and everything about it pristine.

I thought that I’d have a pretty long wait because I really am a fussy sod when it comes to my watches, but what I wasn’t expected was to stumble across one almost immediately. Not only that, but a watch with 100% provenance, having been owned by the father of a TZ-UK member for five years from new, and then by the seller himself until now. I bought it hoping that it was precisely the watch I was looking for, and it really is… its perfect. A reference 3590.50 from 1995, with the loveliest dial I’ve seen on a Speedy. In fact, it’s the loveliest Speedy I’ve ever seen.

Enjoy the photos…

The “Grail” – a term coined by Chuck Maddox for the Speedmaster 376.0822 some years ago – was the culmination of a line produced in various forms since 1974. It contained Omega’s c.1045 movement in each of it’s guises, and this is in fact the Lemania C.5100 by any other name. Why The Grail? Well, as he put it…

“It’s considered one of the rarest of the c.1045 Speedmasters (only the Mark V comes close to the Grail’s rarity); it’s the first time Omega offered a Moonwatch case styled Speedmaster with an Automatic Movement, day, date in a window aperture (the 345.0809 had a date pointer) and24-hour indication; it also utilizes the 1450 bracelet, which was by far the best bracelet Omega had used with the Speedmaster up until that time and is highly coveted by collectors.

It sports the most easily readable dial of the c.1045 Speedmasters (frankly, the other c.1045’s dial readability isn’t even in the same league as the Grail. I’ve had owners of other c.1045 Speedmasters scoff at this assertion until I pull out my 376.0822 and bit tongues and cheeks rapidly occur). For these reasons it is in very high demand by collectors and avidly sought when offered.”

I’ve been eying up the 376.0822 for a while now, and to get this all-original beauty I had to move a couple of lovely pieces on. I think it was well worth it.

Just because it’s beautiful.

Well, Megaquartz, actually. I was lucky enough to pick up this Cal. 1310 F32 Seamaster, NOS from 1976, as an exchange for a modern Tag, meaning that I now have no modern watches at all. (In fact, I’ve had to buy another G in case I’m doing something… I don’t know. Rough?!)

These are pretty rare beasts, especially in this kind of condition. In fact, my 70’s Omega collection seems to be growing nicely!

I do love this watch, but I’ve been hankering after a mesh bracelet for it for ages. The lug style is a perfect match for it, in fact, and last night I got my hands on one.

It was fitted within nanoseconds, and won’t be coming off any time soon.