Perfection?

The 5513 is a strange watch in some ways… it never really “shouts” from the wrist, but instead it just gives the impression of being a solid, no-nonsense, “proper” watch. A watch that you’ll always be able to rely upon, for many it’s the quintessential Rolex.

This one is from 1978, and I bought it back in the summer. It’s actually close to perfect, really – definitely one of the nicest examples I’ve seen although there are many of this age that have a slightly darker patina; the dial’s perfect, though, and the case is lovely and thick. When I wear it I tend to forget I have a watch on at all, and I suspect that’s a sure sign that it’s the right watch for you!

An old boy gets a new look

I bought this beautiful little Rolex, dating from 1956, a while ago and – for some reason – never considered wearing it on the bracelet it would have originally been paired with. Well, originally it would have been a rivet bracelet and this one is a 78350 with screwed links.

Anyway, I think it looks nice, and strangely the watch doesn’t wear as small is it did on leather. Being JUST 34mm, that’s no bad thing!

Dive straps – Isofrane and Tropic

Isofrane changed the perception of dive straps back in the 60’s, releasing a model made from the hitherto unknown compound called Isoprene. Before that, they were usually made from rubber and they were sticky, uncomfortable and would often blister and crack in extreme conditions. These straps were even harder on the divers wearing them, because without ventilation the skin doesn’t breath.

Around the same time (in the 1960’s and 70’s), Rolex offered both Rolex and Tudor Submariners mounted on a Tropic strap as an OEM option. Indeed, Blancpain did similarly with the Fifty Fathoms and a number of other divers (those collectively known as super-compressors, like the Longines Legend Diver and IWC Aquatimer amongst others) were also issued with the Tropic option.

Over the last week or two, I’ve managed to get my hands on both an Isofrane (the reissued version) and a NOS Tropic. I’ve been trying them in different combinations but have settled on these two for now – both look “right” and both are very comfortable to wear.

Submariner 5513 on Tropic

Precista PRS-18A on Isofrane

I don’t know why…

But even though I love sports watches and divers, I always like to have something dressy to fall back on. And these two are… quite nice!

Oysterdate Precision, now on blue ostrich…

I think it looks lovely!

Even older than me!

Quite a few people have said to me recently that the Oysterquartz that I bought a while back really didn’t gel with the rest of what I have. I must admit that I found myself admiring it for what it was, but not really feeling the love. Consequently, I decided on a quick flip that would enable me to fund something rather lovely in its place.

It’s a 1956 Oysterdate Precision (reference 6494) in quite remarkable condition for a 55 year old watch. Waffle dial, roulette date wheel, yellow gold applied indices and logo, blue second hand and a relatively chunky screw-down crown. I think it would originally have come on a folded link bracelet, but I’m sot sure that look would have been as nice, and I’m very happy with it on a strap. In fact, I have a dark blue Ostrich on the way for it.

It’s only a colour…

Some time ago, I decided that I was going to add a red Submariner to my collection. I commenced my search, and indeed sold a lovely white 1680 in order to bolster my funds in readiness. I came very, very close to snagging one on a few occasions, but each time there was something preventing me from completing.

I’ve come to realise that The Hunt for Red Submariner may in fact take some time. In the interim, I’ve been missing the 1680 that I let go, so when I inadvertently stumbled across an absolute beauty across the pond I had to buy it.

My first non-date Sub

I’ve had loads of Submariners, but for some reason never a non-date. I came across this 5513 from 1978 and thought it was about time to put that right!

If Carlsberg made watches…

I think this may be the nicest watch I’ve owned. No, it is the nicest.

Playing with light

One completely dark room. One spotlight. Four watches.

Tick tock…

There are those who feel that to add a battery to the intricate assembly of springs and cogs of which a watch movement is comprised is to somehow dilute the magic. To lessen the art of the watchmaker. I understand that feeling, but am also able to embrace the hybrid technology of HEQ – the High End Quartz. When it’s wrapped up in the kind of package that Rolex produced as their one and only quartz offering, embracing it becomes rather easy, in fact.

This is the second quartz watch in my collection, the other being an Omega Megaquartz from the mid-seventies. Both somehow manage to span the decades quite easily, seeming both period and contemporary at the same time. Whenever I get a new watch I find myself saying “I love it”… but I love it!

Siblings

So, the 1665 and 1675… two absolute beauties, but are they comparable?

I was blown away when I put the 1665 on my wrist. It’s hefty but comfortable, and the dome gives it a really wonderful appearance, complimenting the perfect dial and hands. Compared to the many Subs I’ve owned, it’s in a different league altogether.

However…

I’ve had a lot of watches, and some very nice one’s, it has to be said. None of them – and I think that includes the 1665, if I’m honest – get close to the gilt GMT. It’s by far the most beautiful watch I’ve ever had on my wrist, and if I take just one watch to my grave, I hope that this will be the one.

I should regard them, I guess, as investments but – if that’s indeed what they are – they’re investments that will be worn, and worn a lot.

Here they are together.

“You’ll never go in the water again…”

I’ve watched Jaws too many times for comfort and always enjoy it! Well, not so much now, but then it was made in 1975! Cue more vintage loveliness, then…

The Sea Dweller needs no introduction, but this one is a 1665 “Great White” dating back to 1982. The model was actually released in the mid-70’s, still with the tried and tested 1575 engine of its predecessors but with all-white dial lettering.

Sporting a magnificent NOS Tropic 39SuperDome crystal to set off a perfect dial, hands and case this example really is something rather lovely. It certainly has phenomenal wrist presence – I’m not sure if it’s the domed crystal that does it, but the moment you put it on you know that you’ve got a watch on your wrist.

I love it, and I can barely believe that I’ve picked up both this and a gilt GMT in the space of a week.

Night and day

I do love the 1675 with the black bezel insert, as it matches the beautiful black gloss dial so well. However, it wasn’t available as an option until the early 70’s and therefore wouldn’t have been fitted from/as new. I also quite fancy something that’s instantly distinguishable from my 1680.

Only one solution, really…

Sexy sixties

I have to say to begin with that I don’t really have, or “do” grails. I should probably qualify that by adding that there are watches that I’d really like to own, and perhaps a Rolex 5517 or even a nice old Panerai 6152 fit that bill, but there are lots of others that fall somewhere in between “nice to own” and those I’d give my right arm for.

Closer to the latter than the former would be the GMT-Master 1675, launched in 1960 as a successor to the 6542. Whilst the watch lost out to Omega in the famed NASA moon watch tests the fact remains that a number of the Apollo astronauts opted for the GMT because the Speedy was simply impossible to operate whilst wearing bulky space suit gloves.

Prior to that (in fact, as soon is it was launched in 1954) the 6542 had been adopted by Pan Am as their official watch for pilots and aircrew. In fact it was soon similarly adopted by many of the world’s airlines such that, in 1960, Rolex claimed that it was actually the timepiece of choice for 20 out of 21 cockpit navigators. In other words, the GMT-Master of the 50’s and 60’s has a genuine and rich heritage behind it that justifies its place in any vintage collection.

I love the GMT – even the more recent ones – and have been on the lookout for a nice old one for quite a while. To find one from 1963 (1.1m serial with IV 63 stamped inner case back) that’s in absolutely fantastic condition; that has a perfect glossy, deep black gilt dial with crisp, sharp lettering; that sports the much sought-after pointed crown guards; and that has the most perfectly-matched, creamy yellow hour markers and hands, together with the small GMT hour hand; was an opportunity that proved completely irresistible. So, after an agonising wait of 3 or 4 days (which seemed more like 3 or 4 weeks) this is what landed earlier today.

The watch was serviced in 2003 and 2009 but still has a marvellously fat case that’s completely corrosion-free. To say that I love it would be to call the Mona Lisa a good drawing.

In fact, not unlike the aforementioned astronauts, I’m over the moon!

Fit for a King

I’ve always thought that the Air-King is a hugely under-rated watch. Its simplicity is a joy, and although the 34mm case is considered small these days it actually makes the watch incredibly versatile. Dress it up and it’s the perfect dress watch; dress it down and you can wear it with jeans or shorts.

With this in mind, when an example comes along that dates back to 1970 but looks like it left the Rolex factory only yesterday, the decision to buy is quite an easy one. You can see why from the photos, and now I’m searching for an authentic bracelet – possibly a rivet bracelet, in fact – to pair it with.