I’ve had three of four Speedy’s in the past – all very modern, or relatively modern, variants. I think the oldest was from 1991 and whilst it was my favourite of the bunch (it really did have a lovely patina to the dial) it wasn’t enough to make me miss it that much when it went. In fact, every time I’ve discussed the Speedy with anyone I’ve always heard the same thing; something along the lines of “it’s got to be a stepped dial”. I’d seen them in photos and they looked pretty good, but when a friend on TZ-UK listed his – an ST145.022 from 1971 – it made an immediate impression because it also had the most lovely faded insert (actually, it didn’t hurt that it was fresh from a service, either). It really did seem like too good an opportunity to miss, so I pounced and was lucky enough to be the first in line.
Now, I’m not an expert when it comes to the Speedmaster but I think I’m right in saying that this reference followed the transitional model (the 145.021?) which featured an applied logo and a slightly different chrono hand (the bottom wasn’t flat like this one). Aside from that, I believe that both had the calibre 861 movement and in all other respects were pretty much the same. Well, obviously the pre-moon had a different caseback…
Anyway, I’m really blown away by this watch, and think I understand what everyone’s been telling me now. There are Speedy’s, and then there are Speedy’s.
I’m not sure what it is about Sea Dwellers, but I find them almost irresistible for some reason. This one, clearly, is a little bit different, which just adds to it’s appeal; in fact, I was almost tempted to pop the original bezel and insert on it this morning but in the end I decided to leave it as is.
It’s hard to articulate just how much I love this watch, but if things should ever go pear-shaped this is the one I would never sell. In fact, as an only watch you could do a lot worse.
The largest project I’m working on at present is also for one of my favourite-ever clients, because the project team is such a pleasure to work with and the culture is generally one in which I feel very comfortable. (As a consultant, trust me when I tell you that this isn’t always the case, so it’s something of a bonus.) Anyway, a while back I was in a meeting one of the senior managers there (who I happen to particularly like), and mid-conversation he noticed the Cartier Basculante poking out from under my shirt and said “That’s a very classy watch – is it reversible”? Now, I was dumbfounded as this is a pretty rare occurrence, but since then my watch rotation has become a bit of a talking point before meetings. In fact, the Silverstone I was wearing on one occasion last week was particularly appreciated.
With this in mind, you’ll probably understand that – as I was choosing what to wear for a couple of meetings there tomorrow – I felt obliged to pick out something that hadn’t been seen (or at least noticed) before. The GO PanomaticVenue seemed appropriate, and as I already know that I’ll be wearing a black suit I also had to take off the brown alligator strap and replace it with the original black alligator and rather nice GO deployant clasp.
Well, you have to make an effort, right?
I popped on my 1969 Seamster 60 this morning, and almost immediately one of the (original, 40+ year-old) spring bars broke. It had been on a tropic rubber strap, but because I was less than ecstatic with that combination and I want to keep the (again original) bracelet in unworn condition I had to find another 19mm strap in my box of bits. Luckily I had a Camille Fournet black alligator that will do for now, but in an attempt to bring out the deep blue of both the dial and the Bakelite bezel I’ve also ordered a navy sharkskin from the Di Modell range.
I’m not 100% sure that I’ve cracked it yet, to be honest, and – whilst this isn’t really a blog that attracts a multitude of comments – should you stop by and have any ideas for an alternative please leave a comment and let me know.
This is the cultprit…
Unlike it’s new owner.
Well, having been enjoying the GMT and Montreal for a while now, the final piece of my Heuer jigsaw fell into place when a package arrived all the way from Belgium, courtesy of the one and only Abel Court. (Actually, what I said isn’t strictly true because there are one or two other models that have been tickling my fancy for a while, and anything’s possible. If I were to act like a normal person, though, this would definitely be it.)
Anyway, the Silverstone first appeared in a Heuer catalogue on 1974, was named after the famous racetrack and was effectively the successor to the Monaco. Coming with three dial variants – fume/smoke (a brown starburst finish), red and blue – all housed the same calibre 12 movement, although there was a Lemania 5100 version that was released about ten years after the original. Also common to every variant was the case – a classic 70’s style TV shape and mineral crystal, although the good news is that sapphire replacement crystals are now available if you know where to look. Here’s a catalogue shot, showing it adjacent to the 18kt Carrera that was available at the same time…
This one – a Fume, reference 110.313F – has had a full movement service from Abel and is in pretty much mint condition. It’s on a Corfam-style strap and although I know I’m going to be told to put it on a bracelet I actually have a replica Corfam in light brown being made for me right now. It really does look fantastic and I’m itching to get my hands on the bloody thing, which won’t now be with me for the best part of two weeks.
The other thing worth mentioning is the dial of the Fume, which has a really noticeable starburst pattern but which also reacts to light on a variety of ways. It can look dark brown, light brown and even a greyish shade at any given time, and to me that just adds to an already very beautiful watch. I have to say that I’m really pleased with this one.
I’ve been mulling over a tough, every-day watch for a while now and have been drawn to both Damasko and Sinn for all the obvious reasons. Damasko prices are a little toppy in my opinion, but I was recently tempted by a Sinn 155 that was listed on TZ-UK’s Sales Corner. I missed it first time around, but it’s now found its way to me as is so often the case in this incestuous world of buying and selling which we inhabit.
The 155 is a modern hommage to the Heuer Bundeswehr Chronograph. Manufactured in the 1960s and 1970s, the Bundeswehr was designed and built to German military specifications with a focus on durability. It had a manual flyback movement in a 43mm case and was intended to be particularly readable in a variety of adverse conditions. Sinn had a contract to refurbish these Heuers, and from what I can gather the release of the hommages was the consequence of having some 300 cases left over from that contract. This is where I’m a bit confused (or it’s a bit confusing) as from what I can tell there were two variants; the first housed a Valjoux 7760 handwound movement with no date but registers at 3 and 9 (much like the original Heuer) and these were produced specifically for the Japanese domestic market. The second appears to be a 7750-based three register version with day/date, and these were seemingly sold through Manufactum in Germany. I may even be wrong in thinking that both of these variants were from the same batch of 300 cases, and I have no idea what the connection is with the earlier Sinn 156, if any.
Frankly, I’m not going to worry about it unduly but if anyone can add some clarity to the above it would be appreciated. In the meantime, here’s a couple of shots showing the watch paired with a custom Camille Fournet sharkskin strap that I had in my strap box. Well, it may not be showing that very well because my photos tend to be a bit moody but it really is a very good match.
The Ribbon Series 🙂
Well, it looks Christmasy!
The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2012 annual report for this blog.
Here’s an excerpt:
4,329 films were submitted to the 2012 Cannes Film Festival. This blog had 37,000 views in 2012. If each view were a film, this blog would power 9 Film Festivals
It’s back to the Montreal today. Yes, it’s a large watch but it certainly isn’t overpowering on the wrist, and it’s very comfortable.
Without meaning to sound like a heretic, I’m having serious thoughts about trying a shark mesh on this; they’re prompted by the fact that it looks so good on the Mk II Speedy, and the case shapes aren’t that dissimilar…
Having looked for the right SM300 for ages and then given up the ghost, I was really smitten by the Seamster 60 (ref 166.062) that was listed on TZ-UK’s SC recently. With box and punched papers from 1969ish, it proved to be irresistible and it’s now on my wrist with a nice Tropic strap and the mint bracelet still in the box.
It’s a very wearable size at 37mm, and that’s without a relatively large crown (in fact, this reference has been dubbed the “Big Crown” and you can see why from the photos). It has a deep blue dial and a similarly coloured bakelite bezel – both in fantastic condition – and houses a 24 jewel calibre 565 automatic movement; it doesn’t hack, but the date is quick-set and operated by pulling out and releasing the crown to advance by one day at a time. Water resistance was originally 60m but this one won’t be going swimming any time soon.
I think I’m right in saying that they were only produced from the late 60’s to the very early 70’s so they’re few and far between compared to most other Seamaster models. That aside – what a gorgeous watch!
I’ve had this 666 for a while now, and I do love it – it’s just the perfect all-round watch whilst the dial and insert give it a touch of the unusual and make it very special. From the moment I bought it I’ve used NATO or Zulu straps of one description or another but today – for our trip to Winter Wonderland – I decided to mount the bracelet for a change.
I really like it, and with a few watches now safely stored at the bank this is actually the only one I have on a bracelet at present.
I’ve just had a couple of vintage rally straps made by the guys at DB10 – you can find a link to their Tumblr site in the sidebar. Fantastically soft and supple, I’m delighted with both.
A newly downloaded iPad app that I haven’t used before, but it seems to be pretty nifty… scroll down a couple of posts for the original.
Half Past The Hour 