I well remember my business trip to Sweden back in 2011 that saw me hooking up for lunch with a fellow WIS based in Stockholm. Carl and I had chatted on line for a while and it was good to meet him; what I hadn’t anticipated was that I’d leave the restaurant with two beautiful vintage watches from the 1970’s – the first an IWC Yacht Club, and the second a Seiko 6105 in near-perfect condition. Funnily enough, Apocalypse Now is possibly my all-time favourite film, so wearing the watch that adorned Captain Willard’s wrist felt kind of cool. Of course, it’s also just a cool watch.
Anyway, that was moved on at some point, but fast forward to last week and I was delighted to pick up Time Factors‘ latest offering – the Smiths PRS-68. It’s a wonderful watch that pays fitting tribute to the inspiration for it’s design. However, Eddie Platts (as always) ensured that there were a few improvements to the “original” specification and in this case that included:
Water resistance improved to 200 metres
Screw-down crown replaces bayonet locking crown
Sapphire crystal to replace original mineral crystal
Lug spacing increase to 20mm to enable a greater variety of straps to be fitted
Movement uprated to hi-beat (Miyota 9015)
Quality stainless steel bracelet with solid end links
One thing I particularly like about the TF watches is that the design details are made freely available on the website, and also become the subject of much debate on-forum until such time as the watches go into production. You can see the thinking behind the PRS-68 here but these are the drawings I referred to, from which you can see the level of detail that goes into the production process:
On the wrist, it’s a delight to wear. Whilst being true to the original in terms of overall design there are also marked differences, specifically on the dial; the Smiths logo and red “200 metres” reveal it’s origins quite clearly and – to me, at least – are perfectly proportioned. The surround on the indices is a little thicker than those on the 6015 and the lume (C3 Luminova, and very bright) a little greener. I’m not 100% sure what I think about the raised bezel pip but that’s a minor detail and not one that will keep anyone up at night. The sapphire crystal is flat and flush with the top of the bezel but is curved on the underside, with an AR coating that in some light gives it a blueish tinge. Legibility is excellent, and the look of the dial is clean and uncluttered. What I really love, though, is the second hand, with it’s red dot harking back to one of Seiko’s design triumphs.
It’s also very, very comfortable. The case is a tad larger than that of the 6105 at 44.5mm but is sits very flat, and with it’s very short lugs can be worn by those with relatively small wrists. Luckily the lug width has been increased to 20mm which means that strap choices abound (I’m wearing mine on black nylon, which seems a perfect match to my eyes). In fact, that additional 1mm between the lugs makes a massive difference visually albeit that the general appearance of a relatively narrow strap on a wide cushion case is retained. In essence, there’s just enough difference in the design to make it a watch in it’s own right whilst still clearly harking back to one of the great dive watch icons of all time.
There’s been much discussion on the net regarding this watch and one or two other 6105 homage’s that have been mooted but not yet brought to the market. Regardless of that, however, the PRS-68 continues a tradition that followers of Time Factors watches in all their guises have come to expect. They’re always well-priced, beautifully engineered and offer the opportunity to wear a modern take on watches that in most cases are either unavailable to most as a consequence of cost, or tend to be babied (or simply locked away) because of their scarcity. This one really does hit the spot for me, to the extent that I’ve subsequently turned down an opportunity to buy back my old 6105 because the PRS-68 is just about perfect for what I want.
I picked up a few DB10 straps recently, and they arrived in the post today. I’ve wanted suede for my Great White for a while now, and I reckon it looks the dog’s.
I’ve never ordered an Extract of the Archives from Omega before but I wanted to know the production date of my Ed White Speedmaster and it also seemed like it completed the set nicely. Anyway, less than two weeks from the date of order, and it arrived in the post this morning. I was actually expecting it to be laminated (which it wasn’t), but on the plus side it was contained within an envelope bearing a waxed Omega seal; it also opens via a flap at the top so the seal is still intact.
The important thing is that I now know the production date (to the day), which is kind of nice
When I only had 6 watches (well 7 really, but one is at service and will be moved on when it’s back). It’s very… liberating.
Loving the tan as we got into the summer sunshine too 🙂
Not long ago, and shortly after reluctantly selling my JLC Perpetual Calendar (it wasn’t being worn, and it transpires that I’m not really into gold watches) I completed a trade that saw my 4th Glashutte Original arrive in the post, with a Milgauss GV and a bundle of cash having gone off in the other direction. It was a fantastic opportunity, too, because this new arrival is in fact the beautiful Senator Perpetual Calendar, which means that the PC void has been very quickly filled. It also means that after letting some lovely GO’s go (ahem) in the past, this fantastic manufacturer is represented once again, and this time it’ll be for the long term.
The Senator Perpetual Calendar is the 40mm model (reference 100-02-13-02-04) that was discontinued in favour of it’s 42mm successor in or around late 2011. This was a mistake in my opinion, because the same movement (more on that in a second) was simply popped into a bigger case with a larger bezel. I think that this model is much nicer in terms of aesthetics and overall scale, and this particular watch has an added sense of provenance in that it was bought from Jeffrey Hess (who wrote that book with James Dowling) as unworn/NIB just last November. In reaching me it was still as new, and bearing in mind that the current Senator PC lists at around £15k I reckon I’ve been rather lucky to have got my hands on this one.
The dial is beautifully balanced, with day, month, date and moonphase positioned in each of the four corners. The dot below the 12 marker is a year “type” indicator, and this is how the perpetual element of the movement does its work. Yellow indicates one year after a leap year; black is two years after; white is one year before a leap year; and red signifies a leap year itself. In addition to advancing via the crown the movement is operated with a number of push-buttons strategically placed on the case sides at 2 hours (month adjustment,) 10 hours (day of the week adjustment,) 9 hours (moon-phase adjustment,) 8 hours (sum correction for date, day of the week, month and yearly rhythm,) and 7 hours (second hand reset function).
The movement is GO’s top of the line 100 series – in this case the 100-02, which contains 59 jewels, beats at 28,800 vph and provides a power reserve of 55 hours. Typically of all GO watches, the movement is exquisitely finished with the usual bevelled edges, polishing and engraving; a lovely swan neck regulator, and a skeletonised rotor with 21k gold oscillation weight. I have to admit that I’m no longer surprised when I see GO movements, as I now know what to expect; however, they really are things of beauty.
Obviously, I’m completely overjoyed!
I’ve had loads of Monsters in the past, in my ongoing hunt for the perfect beater. Old and new versions, bracelet and NATO, but always the black version… until last week, that is, when someone on TZ-UK kindly sold me his orange-dialled beauty. And bloody hell, what a difference!
Somehow, and perhaps because it’s summer, the added splash of colour makes it a really fun watch to wear. The updated hacking/handwinding movement makes it more wearable as well, I think, but for whatever reason I’m really happy I bought it.
I do like to change straps/bracelets pretty regularly – that goes for most of my watches, too – and so far as the Ed White Speedy is concerned i seem to have quite a few options. The bracelet (the correct vintage reference, too) will be staying in the box, but I still have to make my mind up as to what I’m going to keep on the watch for now. I have three very different looks, potentially, and this morning I seem to be favouring the NATO… mind you, who knows what tomorrow will bring?
Whilst I considered my beautiful Speedmaster professional ST145.022 to be as close to a keeper as I’m ever likely to have, of late I’ve also been suffering increasingly lustful feelings brought on by photos of the “Ed White” 105.003 and sure enough I gave in to temptation when an absolute gem popped up on TZ-UK. It meant letting a friend have his old watch back (well, he had been hinting for some time, if truth be told) but I have no doubt whatsoever that I made the right decision.
It was in June 1965 that Edward H white II – a member of the Gemini 4 spacecraft crew – opened the hatch and embarked on a 22 minute spacewalk with an Omega Speedmaster mounted on a NASA velcro strap adorning the outside of his spacesuit.
The funny thing is, Omega themselves weren’t even aware that this amazing piece of horological history was going to be created, and it was only after the read the Life Magazine report of the spacewalk and saw the accompanying pictures that they realised the extent of the opportunity afforded to them. Future models of the Speedmaster would thereafter bear the word “Professional” on the dial and a legend was born.
Whilst the Speedmaster may have been the first watch to be actually exposed to the hostile environment of space, the association of watches with space exploration slightly more muddied, and for those interested Chuck Maddox provided a nice little timeline here. Even more interestingly, however, not only is the 105.003 thought to be the first watch exposed directly to outer space, but it was also the last watch to be worn on the moon as Eugene Cernan wore a reference 105.003 on the Apollo 17 mission. Cernan was the last person to leave the surface of the moon and his watch can now be seen in the Omega Museum.
History aside, then, the Ed White is identifiable by it’s (smaller – 40mm?) round, symmetrical case, straight lugs, lack of crown guards and a stepped dial that features an applied Omega logo. Inside, the c.321 movement is based on a design development project titled “27 CHRO C12” (27 mm diameter, chronograph, with extra 12-hour register) which took place in the 1940’s and involved Albert Piguet and Jaques Reymond (it was actually a joint development project between Omega and Lemania). Launched in 1942, the 27 CHRO C12 later became known as the Lemania 2310 (or Omega c.321). It was used not only in the Omega Speedmaster from 1957 to 1965, but also in the renamed and re-cased Omega Speedmaster Professional from mid-1965 through to mid-October 1968, together with the DeVille, Seamaster and other Omega chronographs during this era. (This info, together with some great background on all of the Speedmaster Moonwatch movements, can again be found courtesy of the late Chuck Maddox here.)
All in all, an instantly recognisable piece of horological history and one of the true icons amongst watches. This one, from 1967, is in frankly stunning condition, having gone to STS for the full spa treatment in 2006. The case is near perfect, the dial nothing short of glorious, and whilst it sports a service replacement bezel the original (along with the original crown and pushers) were included in the sale package. All in all, it really is the ultimate Speedy, so with this and the lovely Mk II Racing that I’m also lucky enough to own, I think I can tick that box for good.
Going back a year or so I had my first taste of Panerai when I traded a Daytona for a Luminor PAM233. The 233 was actually a stunning watch but it was possibly a little too clunky for my relatively small wrist; in any event, whilst I really did like it I accepted a request to reverse the trade a few weeks later. I really missed that watch (and still do) but in part it was because of the movement – a hand wound in-house calibre with three barrels providing an 8-day power reserve. Spectacular, actually, but even when I owned the watch I was looking at the Radiomirs that were of similar quality. The one that struck a chord was the 268 but I soon pretty much forgot about it. Until, that is, I was offered one in a trade a week or so ago… and what a long week it was, because it was only yesterday that I met yet another WIS for the deal to be concluded.
The PAM268 was only the third Radiomir to be fitted with an in-house movement (the other two – the PAM200 and the PAM201 – were both Special editions from 2005). The movement in all three was the Calibre P.2002, which took it’s name from the year in which Panerai launched it’s project to produce fully in-house movements from it’s Manufacture in Neuchatel. It’s a pretty thing to, as you can see…
Here’s what Officine Panerai has to say about it:
The P.2002 calibre consists of 247 components; it has 21 jewels and a thickness of 6.6 millimetres. Hand-wound and with a power reserve of 8 days with linear indicator on the dial, it has the characteristics peculiar to all the calibres of the P.2000 series: great structural strength; three spring barrels; rapid adjustment of local time; free-sprung balance; balance wheel oscillating at 28,800 alternations per hour (a frequency which is unusual in a movement with a large power reserve).
The three spring barrels in series, the design of which is an Officine Panerai patent, ensures the delivery of an even, optimal force which remains stable for 8 days, thus delivering a force which is constant for all the days of the power reserve.
So, beautiful on the inside, and to my mind beautiful on the outside too. The Radiomirs are all pretty large (this one is 45mm, like my 380) but they have a knack of wearing much more easily than one might think. The wire lugs don’t really add to the size of the case, and the shape itself means that the head sits pretty low on the wrist. The main visual differences with this one (when compared to the 380) are all on the dial; it’s a sandwich dial on the 268, and of course there’s a power reserve and a date window. In fact, with the additional logo on the 380 the two watches look very different, for all their similarities.
You may also be wondering how the 268 compares to the 233 I mentioned earlier (or, of course, you may not). Well, the particular iteration of the movement in the 268 (the P.2002/3) has no GMT function and no seconds reset; having said that, the fact that the hour hand moves in one-hour increments kind of negates the loss of a second time zone, at least in as much as you can change zones without having to mess with the minute hand. The biggest difference, though, is in respect of the case because the Radiomir and Luminor models look nothing like each other from that perspective. For me, the Radiomir is far better in terms of size and fit, but obviously both have their merits and both are in their own way rather lovely.
Right, that’s enough nonsense, so here are a few photos 🙂
I’m obviously being sucked in to the whole PAM strap-changing nonsense, and naturally decided to see what Panatime had to offer. This one is rock python; it’s quite bold in terms of colour and texture – the scale edges are really very pronounced, which was unexpected – but it’s changed the look of the watch completely and I’m loving it.
Bizarre – I didn’t even realise it was happening 🙂
Not for the first time, a GTG attended by the local WIS community has resulted in an impromptu watch trade. Out went one of my Rolex sports watches, to be replaced by my second Panerai (the first being the magnificent 233, which I still miss).
Until last Sunday I’d never tried on a Radiomir, and whilst they’re sizeable chunks of steel the shape of the case means that they sit very flat on the wrist. The “wire” lugs also lend themselves to the slightly smaller wrist as they don’t really add to the bulk of the watch, and to my mind they’re therefore slightly more wearable than the Luminor range. Aside from that, the Radiomir case mirrors the design of the original models, and therefore has some historical significance.
This one is the “Historic” Radiomir Black Seal Logo (PAM 380), which is a reproduction of the design of the first watch the Officine Panerai produced for the Italian Navy in 1938. The case is polished 316L stainless steel and whilst it’s 45mm without the (signed) crown it actually sits nicely on my fairly small 6.75” wrist with no overhang whatsoever. It has a matt black (painted as opposed to sandwich) dial, with a mixture of baton markers and Arabic numerals (3,6 and 12) and subsidiary seconds at 9. The crystal is a slightly domed 1.9mm sapphire, with AR coating. Water resistance is a very decent 100m and the removable lugs take a 26mm strap, adding to the overall comfort and general sense of wearability.
Inside is the Panerai OPII calibre movement, which is essentially a modified, COSC-certified ETA 6497/2 (the suffix denoting the addition of seconds to the base movement). Details as follows:
· Hand-wound mechanical movement
· 16½ lignes
· 17 jewels
· Bridges personalised by Panerai
· Glucydur® balance
· 21,600 bph
· Incabloc® anti-shock device
· Power reserve 56 hours.
Now, here’s the thing. I am on the lookout for the slightly more esoteric PAM 337, which is also a little smaller at 42mm. However, whilst the 380 is a Base model and was intended to keep me going during what I anticipated would be a long wait, it might just do the trick for me. It’s a fair bit less expensive, wears well despite its larger size and actually seems pretty good as a watch for most occasions. It’s also bloody comfortable, so who knows – maybe it’s a case of itch scratched.
No, I’m not talking about the new Superman movie. However, whilst I’m normally whipping off bracelets before the watches are even out of the box, I just couldn’t find the perfect match for this tritium Explorer II so – in a moment of inspiration – I put it back on the bracelet.
Nice!
