The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2013 annual report for this blog.
Here’s an excerpt:
The concert hall at the Sydney Opera House holds 2,700 people. This blog was viewed about 50,000 times in 2013. If it were a concert at Sydney Opera House, it would take about 19 sold-out performances for that many people to see it.
Better start cooking now 🙂
I was actually just getting it ready to wear tomorrow, but I noticed that the leap year indicator has started to change, and of course the date is showing Christmas Eve. Under the circumstances, it would have been rude not to…
Have a wonderful Christmas, everybody, whether it’s a religious or secular holiday for you. I hope Santa brings you something nice!
Well, it’s that time again… coming up to Christmas, the festive spirit is mostly in the fridge right now and a quick look back over the year is appropriate.
I posted a an SOTC this time last year, at which time I had 13 watches with an emphasis on vintage Rolex (and there were some beauties!). This year I tried to get the numbers down a bit, and I succeeded for a while… I seem to have gone back up to 12 again, though, which is yet further evidence of my non-existent will-power. Anyway, as I did last year I still have vintage Rolex and Autavia GMTs; a nice old 5513; a fugly Tuna; a dressy and complicated JLC and GO; and a variety of other things to give me plenty of options. Too many options really, but I may as well just enjoy them all while I can and stop worrying about it.
I’ll take the opportunity to wish everyone well over the holidays too. It’ll be a quiet one for me as my other half is away with her family, but at least I can watch all the horror movies I want to watch for a couple of weeks 🙂
It’s funny, but since acquiring this old boy from the mid-seventies I’ve hardly given it a second glance. It’s indicative, I suppose, of the cycles we go through with watches – not that many months ago I was very much focussed on old Heuers, but now I’m down to just the one and it seems to be struggling for air.
I think I’ll make a point of giving it some wrist time over the Christmas holidays and at the same time resist the urge to show fabouritism to one or two others in the box that are partcilularly alluring right now.
Some time back, I sold what was a lovely watch in my JLC Reserve de Marche. I must admit that I missed it a fair bit – in fact, I still do – and although I knew it would be replaced at some point the newer version started to appeal more and more. That was the Master Ultra Thin model in 39mm, and vying with it was the MUT Moon; both watches were absolute stunners but when I tried them on in Wempe the other week it was the Moon that really sang to me. Such a classic and simple dial, and I’m such a sucker for a moonphase so (for me, at least) it was absolutely perfect.
I tried to source one new at a good price, but didn’t have much luck. Someone pointed me towards a mint used example at The Watch Club, but they were asking too close to new price for it to be an easy decision, and in the end the solution arrived as a consequence of my posting a Want To Buy ad on TZ-UK. I met a member from there for a coffee yesterday, and having had a nice chat for an hour or so I wandered back to the office holding a large box and with the watch on my wrist. It certainly hasn’t disappointed either.
The case measures 39×9.9mm, and inside is the Jaeger LeCoultre Ultra Slim Self-Winding Caliber 925 – measuring only 4.9mm thick, its oscillating rotor finished with a 22 carat gold weight not unlike those found in GO calibers, and with the usual exemplary standard of decoration. This fantastic movement beats at 28,800 vph, is composed of 246 parts, contains 30 Jewels & has an approximate power reserve of 43 hours… considering it also provides both date and moonphase complications it really is a marvel.
The silvered dial perfectly sets off the steel indices and hands, the latter of which have both brushed and polished facets; the second hand is blued, and all three hands are wonderfully elegant in both shape and dimensions. At six is the sub-dial containing both the moonphase and date indicators and these are operated not by the crown, but by recessed pushers on either side of the case.
All in all, I think this an absolutely stunning watch, and I’m thrilled to own it. I’m a big fan of JLC in any event, but the current range of Ultra Thins take a lot of beating in my opinion.
I’m done with Rolex sports watches!
Grrrr…
The last GMT I had was the beautiful PCG from 1963 that I let go in a very ill-advised trade. Prior to that I’d had a GMTIIC and a 16710 from the late nineties, and I have to say that it’s a watch that I like to have in my collection.
I’ve actually yearned for a nice matt-dialled example since letting the last one go. I didn’t really fancy another 1675 as the lack of a quickset date is a major pain, and that left only the first couple of years of the 16750 to go for. (The newer references – starting with the 16760, or Fat Lady, in 1983 – benefitted from an independently adjustable hour hand, thus giving them true GMT functionality. Up until then, though, and including the 16750, the second time zone could only be utilised through bezel adjustment; whilst the 24-hour hand simply mirrored the time shown by the hour and minute hands. Mind you, even that was better than the McQueen!)
The 16750 is a model that was produced from 1981 to 1988, and it introduced the new cal. 3075 movement with a different order for the hand stack and – importantly – a properly quicksetting date; by which I mean, not a semi-quickset achieved via an hour hand that moved in one-hour increments, but quickset date changing through the crown operation. The matt dials were only fitted for a couple of years, so they’re genuinely quite rare in comparison to the gloss dial with WGS indices. The earlier production runs of the gloss dials also had what’s known as the no-date dial (i.e. the word “Date” wasn’t printed on the dial) but this applied to all the matt dials as well.
Despite looking regularly for the right watch over a period of months, I was finding it pretty hard to find anything in the right condition and at the right price. Then, a couple of days ago, I saw that a TZ member had listed just the thing (dating from 1983, and with gorgeous dial & hands and nice fat lugs) and I was frantically PMing him within seconds of having had sight of the listing. It turns out that the watch was previously owned by someone I know and who’s even more fussy than I am (and I’m quite fussy), so I was pretty sure it would be a good watch! It arrived yesterday, and after being somewhat frustrated looking at the package on my desk for a couple of hours I sneaked off to the loo, unpacked it and popped it on my wrist. (The activity in the cubicles either side of mine was a bit disconcerting, but needs must.)
I’ve gone from 1960’s vintages of both GMT and 5513 to 1980’s versions of both, not really meaning to but subconsciously gravitating towards watches that are slightly more robust and wearable. I have to admit that I’m over the moon with this one – it’s as nice a GMT from this era as I’ve ever seen and a perfect partner for my 5513 of similar age.
Just a couple of photos, showing that lovely dial and faded fat font insert…
I’ve bought quite a few DB10s in the past, but last week bought my first Heuerville… a distressed black saddle leather in 20mm that was intended for my Autavia GMT. Stewart had warned me that it was tough to get it on an Autavia due to the thickness, and he wasn’t kidding. In fact I gave up after a few minutes as I didn’t want to risk marking the case.
Anyway, I had a bit of a think and came up with an alternative use for it. It looks great, I think (I know, it’s too dark to see exactly what it looks like ;)).
There’s been a fair bit of talk on TZ-UK recently regarding the Seagull 1963 reissue. The original watch was made for the Chinese Air Force in (you’ve guessed it) 1963, and the latest version is true to it’s predecessor save that the movement has a couple of extra jewels.
Discussion has abounded regarding crystals and case-backs, and in the midst of it all I managed to satisfy a yearning that’s been building for some time now. I purchased mine over at Watchunique, and ordered it with the domed acrylic crystal and solid case-back. The cost was all of ÂŁ181, and I’m more than happy with my choices as I think they look “right” and are as authentic as possible. FedEx delivered the package from the Netherlands within three days or ordering too, which is lucky because I happened to be working from home today when I got the knock.
As for the watch itself… well, it’s never going to compete with the big-hitters costing a whole lot more (it’s a cheaply-printed dial, and there are some very minor QC issues) but for the money you can’t deny that it’s some achievement. A hand-wound, 21 jewel column-wheel chronograph, lovely play on colours (gold, red and blue) and applied indices that really catch the light. This one is 38mm and it comes with an 18mm olive NATO that suits it perfectly. I’ve ordered a couple of striped alternatives (red/sand and sand/red) as well as a solid brown, and I’m sure it’ll be fun switching them around. All in all, you can’t argue with the value, and it’s certainly one of the prettiest watches I’ve seen. I love it
Actually, my third Autavia GMT 16630. Well, I let that amazing NOS example go because I couldn’t bring myself to wear it, but I do love these watches and knew at some point I’d buy another. Yesterday I met up with a few guys from TZ, and took the opportunity to complete a trade with my old mucker Simon for this lovely thing. It looks more vintage than my previous examples but the dial is unmarked and Abel Court has given the case a light refinish. Aside from that it’s had a movement service from TAG so it really is in lovely nick.
Aside from a new watch (and some new – very expensive – boots) it was nice to hook up with everyone, ogle some watches, have a very good lunch and enjoy a beer or two.
A few years ago, I seemed to be spending half my time on planes as I managed a series of projects across Europe. Anyone who flies regularly on business will know what a pain in the backside it can be, but I took solace from the fact that I could ogle watches in places like Geneva and Munich (airports, I mean) and occasionally play spot-the-watch on the flights themselves. Anyway, on the second leg of a flight to Ljubljana – that’s in Slovenia, by the way – one day a pretty smart businessman sat next to me and proceeded to read the paper. I couldn’t help but notice his watch, which was a steel and rose gold Datejust Turn-O-Graph with white dial and jubilee bracelet and, from that moment, I’ve been keeping my eyes peeled for one. I think they’re beautiful.
The Turn-O-Graph/Thunderbird was first introduced in 1953 and gained its moniker for being the watch provided to the Thunderbird aeronautics squadron of the US Air Force. It’s always received a mixed response as, with its rotating fluted bezel, it’s not quite a dress watch and not quite a sports watch (which is actually precisely what I like about it). That said, there was a host of iterations prior to the current datejust version and some of the vintage models are highly sought-after. Personally, I’ve never liked the older references but that’s not to say that I can’t appreciate them for what they were/are.
So, not long ago I received a heads-up from a member on TZ regarding a Rolex (and other) dealership in Malaga that was having a bit of a clear-out. Fast forward to today, and I received the first watch I’ve bought new from an AD for some time, and the watch I’ve been hankering for since that flight I mentioned earlier. It’s a reference 116264, in stainless steel and white gold. the dial is the blue that Rolex does so well, and there’s more than a hint of red (in the second hand, the model name and the date wheel) that gives it an extra touch of vibrancy. I love the blue with red accents, and the dial changes quite dramatically depending on the way that the light hits it. The photos below show that quite well, I think.
I’m very pleased with it!
I’ve fancied trying as full-lume Damasko for a while now, and was quite impressed with one I saw in the metal when I had a coffee with Jonathan from Page & Cooper the other day. Anyway, circumstances were such that I got an opportunity to nab a DC57 that landed a couple of days ago, so I thought I’d take a few photos whilst I was in the mood.
The quality is certainly outstanding, and the finish of the ice-hardened steel case is superb; I love the way the crystal all but disappears, too. Whether or not it stays beyond the short term remains to be seen, as my first reaction is that it lacks a little… warmth. That said, maybe I’ll give it some time as I’m fed up with selling watches and then wishing I hadn’t done so.
Anyway, the photos…
A couple of people asked me to post an up to date SOTC recently, so here it is – no changes of late and I won’t be selling any of these any time soon. I quite like the mix of modern and vintage, and there are quite a few different styles and complications in there. I must say that I’m particularly fond of the 806 (which needs a new strap) and the 5513, although I wear all of them regularly and get a lot of pleasure from each of them.
I had 17 watches not that long ago and am much more comfortable with a smaller and more manageable collection (that said, I do have a little package on the way). Anyway, I hope you like the pack-shot
I’m pretty happy with my lot at the moment, but nonetheless I have a couple of incomings due this week. I’ll post about the other one when it arrives, but the first is a JLC Master Compressor Chronograph dating from 2006. It’s just had a full spa and service at JLC and is pretty much mint, and this acquisition came after quite a few months of thought.
I first tried on a Master Compressor (a geographic, in fact) a couple of years ago when I met another watch fanatic for a chat and a cuppa, and I was really impressed with the build quality. Bearing in mind that JLC is my favourite brand I always knew I’d end up buying one and whilst I’ve considered a few models since then the Chrono is a the one I’ve gone for. I find some a bit too cluttered – let’s face it, this dial isn’t exactly plain – and having worn the watch all day I’m happy that I did the right thing in biding my time. It wears really nicely at 41.5mm and actually sits under a cuff very easily (it’s not at all deep, which helps). It’s a kind of smart/sporty mix and I think I’ll wear it rather a lot.
Please excuse the naff position of the hands in the photos – I’m VERY tired for a host of reasons and have a stinking cold, so I wasn’t at my sharpest!
Well, after a bit of a delay (sorry for that – life took over) I’m delighted to publish another guest post – this one from my mate Carl (“Feelingtheblues” on The Rolex Forum) in which he muses about his gorgeous vintage LeCoultre from the 1940’s. Thanks, Carl!
Vintage Watch Review: 1940’s Jaeger-LeCoultre manual winding watch in stainless steel
Since its creation in 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been a synonym of haute horlogerie and high quality timepieces. For some, this may be nothing more than mere marketing and many would be able to say the same about a lot of other brands but in my humble opinion there is an important detail that makes it different if compared to others… Jaeger-Lecoultre is not only a company, it’s a manufacture of watch movements.
Same thing, different name? I would beg to differ! With about 1 200 calibres and 400 patents, the manufacture has played a very important role in watchmaking, whether we are talking about technological advances or performance increases. Surprisingly, despite its collaborations with Patek Philippe, Cartier and many other brands (to which it has sold a great amount of movements and ébauches), it seems like this name isn’t one that comes to the mind of enthusiasts when we talk about collectibles (unless we are talking about a Reverso from the 1930’s, some Grandes Complications or an original Memovox Deepsea). A lot of those watches can be found on Ebay, especially the LeCoultre’s sold to the American market, and with a bit of patience one can get a pretty good deal on them.
My Watch
There are some of those purchases that, even if you had been thinking about them, just seem to come up and surprise you. In all honesty I have to say it’s exactly what happened with this one! I had read about Jaeger-LeCoultre and learned a lot of things that made my watchmaking student self admire the name but didn’t really get into shopping for one. It was quite a good timing that, upon lurking ads on a watch forum, I came across one selling a small model in stainless steel and decided to let curiosity get the better of me.
The first thing that I noticed was, obviously, the dial; a champagne-coloured, very simple round one with applied arrow markers and Arabic numerals for the four quarters that match the gold coloured hands. Not only was the contrast with the stainless steel mesmerising but the patina that had developed on it made the whole face of the watch look a tad darker. I found that the watch had aged very beautifully and that the minute ring, along with the brand name (the shortened form of which indicates that this watch had been made and sold for the European market), remained very crisp looking; I had been warned by the seller that it may be an old refurbishing job but under my loupe it didn’t look like it. Alas, it happens that such information gets lost as the watch goes from one owner to another so I cannot confirm that the dial has never been touched or that the case and lugs have not been polished, but as far as I’m concerned if such things were done to the watch they haven’t ruined it like many other poorly done jobs I’ve seen around.
The 32mm round and mirror finished case would make a lot of people cringe; nowadays this would be considered a woman’s size but one could be surprised as I know a lot of ladies who would prefer to have a bigger timepiece on their wrists. Some would be able to settle down to such a size should the case be a cushion style as the corners would make it wear bigger but neither its shape nor its very small crown help this timepiece to look bigger. Yet, this is one of the things that made it ever so attractive to me. Its elegant and subtle size makes it a wonderful dress watch as well as a good size for a casual one (in my humble opinion, of course), the wrist surrounds it in a beautiful way and in my mind there’s no doubt that this is a vintage man’s watch. You may also notice the tear drop lugs, a classic among details on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watches.
There’s no doubt that the external look of the watch is a very important thing to look at when shopping, however, in this case the interior of the watch was just as important to me. I have many lower end timepieces that I have bought because I found them beautiful but for this one I knew that I was also getting a well built and beautifully finished movement. The brass bridges make the whole movement pop out when you open the case back and their finishing is outstanding: cĂ´tes de Genève stripes, beveled edges and elegant yet sharp forms… everything makes you think that they’ve paid a lot of attention to details whilst producing this calibre.
All in all, for a lot of people this watch would look like a mere small accessory made to tell time, this is something that made this watch a great purchase to me. Its simplicity makes it an elegant timepiece, yet, as a vintage watch enthusiast and as a fan of companies with a great historical background, the gears and parts inside this small case make me understand why Jaeger-LeCoultre is such a respected brand in the world of haute horlogerie and make me want to fully agree with that statement. To me it’s more than having a watch with a fancy name, it’s knowing what this name really represents, whether a lot of people know it and agree with it or not.
