The very first vintage watch I bought was a Grand Seiko from all the way back in 1968. The nanosecond I saw it I knew it had to be mine, and when it arrived it exceeded my expectations. Back in those days, the designs were all pretty simple but the modern variants can be found in all manner of guises, from some substantial divers to complications and snowflake dials. However, the watch that I chose to get married in was again something quite beautiful as a consequence of it’s simplicity; the SBGR061 is a three-hander with date, sporting a deep ivory dial, blued second hand and sub-40mm case. I love it, and whilst I do tend to flip my watches I’d like to think that I’ll keep this one for obvious reasons.

Bizarrely, the actual watch in question is not the same one I wore on my wedding day. For some reason, I told myself that the dial was a bit too ivory, and that the style wasn’t quite dressy enough to be a dress watch, nor sporty enough to wear casually. I have no idea what I was thinking, to be honest, and having stupidly sold it I jumped at the chance to snag one for a second time when the opportunity arose. Equally bizarrely, I recall speaking to Coady, a friend on TZ-UK, at the time of my “confusion” as he was contemplating getting one himself. In the end, he took heed of what I said and went for something similar but, in some ways, quite different – the SBGW001. His choice was a little smaller at about 37.2mm; was handwound, as opposed to automatic; had no date, so was a classic dress three-hander; and had a paler dial, which was somehow a little less… contrived. I always wondered, in fact, if his was the better choice, but have in any event been completely consistent in my view that the pair of them are arguably the most lovely of all the modern Grand Seiko references. (Well, aside from a particular anniversary edition that’s just about impossible to get hold of anyway.)

So, there I was, quite happily enjoying my “wedding watch” (and it does get worn regularly, as it happens) when Coady decided to move on his SBGW001. I saw it pretty much the moment that it hit Sales Corner, and read (and re-read) the sales post with a slightly quickening heart. I know how rarely these watches come up for sale, and it was fairly certain that if I didn’t buy it straight away someone else would do so and would almost certainly hang onto it. So, even though I knew it was fairly similar to the GS I already had we were soon engaged in correspondence, and not long after I’d paid for it. It took a while to get here as Fedex needed organising and for one reason or another that took a few days, but I’ve been waiting patiently and today the package was delivered to my office.

The SBGW is based around a handwound 9S54 movement offering accuracy of -3/+5 seconds per day and a power reserve of 50 hours; It beats at 28,800VPH, contains 20 jewels and is adjusted in 6 positions and at 3 temperatures (indeed, Seiko provides certification of this testing with each watch sold with the movement, all contained in a leather wallet inside the box). The movement finishing/decoration is by allegedly carried out by machine, but it really is very pretty and by all accounts the finish under a loupe is impeccable. I’ve pinched a web photo to show what it looks like, albeit that it can’t be seen on the SBGW001; however, Seiko has confirmed that the finish of the hidden movements is no different to those that are visible through a display back.

The case measures 37.2mm, as I mentioned above, with relatively long but gently curved and drilled lugs. The design is decidedly simple, but the casework is full of lovely curves and polished steel, and it has the feel of real quality. The domed sapphire crystal, with it’s double AR coating, stands about 1mm proud of the bezel before sloping upwards another millimetre or so. The view it affords of the pale ivory dial is just as it needs to be, and the richness of Seiko’s dial finishing is clear to see (and no surprise, as the GS dials are all similarly impressive). Because it’s a handwound movement there’s little text on the dial, and what there is (Seiko, the GS logo and Grand Seiko) is very subtle. The un-lumed dauphine hands and hour markers are typical of the GS dress watches, and add to the impression of simplicity.

Coady and I were chatting over PM yesterday, and we both came to the same conclusion about the SBGW001. If you want a watch that will get you noticed, this isn’t the one; it just does what it was designed to do, quietly and efficiently. However, if you’re the kind of guy that always noticed the shy but alluring girl, standing in the corner of the room and not looking anyone in the eye, then this is a watch that you’ll probably appreciate. It just exudes class, and – without needing to raise it’s voice – seems to be saying “I know what I am, and I don’t have to make a fuss about it.”

It really is a little piece of perfection.

(Sorry about the photos – it’s a tricky watch to get right for some reason, but I’ll add some new ones as and when I have time to shoot them.)

I’m not even going to talk about how difficult this photograph proved to be, but suffice it to say that I’m now the very proud owner of arguably the two most beautiful modern Grand Seikos. The one on the left is the watch I got married in – the SBGR061. To be honest, I wasn’t planning on adding another, but when a member of TZ-UK popped an absolute beauty up on Sales Corner I simply couldn’t resist. It’s the SBGW001 – a tad smaller, handwound, with no date and a slightly lighter dial.

Yes, they’re similar, but it’s a bit like having a date and no-date Sub and I love them both. I’ll do a proper write-up on the incoming as soon as I can.

I had one of these – a GS SBGR061 – (and wore it when I got married) about three years ago. It’s a lovely watch, with an impeccable standard of finish typical of the Grand Seiko marque… can’t actually recall why I sold it, but then that applies to many of the watches I’ve sold! The history of the “Grand” element of Seiko is interesting, and one that I became quite familiar with when I first owned a vintage 61GS from all the way back to 1968. This is taken directly from Seiko’s website, but it encapsulates everything pretty well…

“Seiko won every accuracy competition in Japan in the 1950’s and then sought new challenges on the international stage. Seiko’s application to join the Neuchatel Observatory Contest in 1960’s was graciously accepted , but the first results were a disaster! Seiko finished no better than 144th. However, the results improved rapidly and, by 1968, Seiko achieved first place in the mechanical watch category of Geneva Observatory Contest. The rapid development of Seiko’s mechanical watchmaking expertise made possible the creation of the Grand Seiko standard and the determination to create the best, functional watch in the world.

Grand Seiko became a truly attractive commercial proposition when, in 1968, automatic winding was added to the already renowned accuracy of the first Grand Seiko creations. In 1968, a 10-beat automatic model 61GS was made, immediately followed by a 10-beat hand winding model 45GS and a 10-beat women’s model 19GS. In 1969, specially adjusted models of 61GS V.F.A. and 45GS V.F.A. were created, delivering one- minute per month accuracy, which remains the gold standard in the mechanical watch industry.”

Impressive, eh?

Anyway, I picked this up over the weekend, and I have to say that I’m very happy with it; it really is a kind of all-purpose, classic style and i’ll be able to wear it both formally and casually without any problems. Should you be interested the spec is below, with details on the Seiko website here:

Drive system – Mechanical Automatic (Hand winding capability)
Caliber No. – 9S65
Case – Stainless steel
Case back – -through case back with sapphire crystal
Glass – High definition dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating
Band – Crocodile
Buckle – Stainless steel with three-fold clasp with push button release
Accuracy – 5 ~ -3 seconds/ day
Water resistance – 3 bar
Magnetic resistance – than 4800 A/m (60 gauss)*
Weight – 84g
Case thickness – 13.1mm
Case diameter – 39.5mm
Jewels – 35

The movement is impeccable, although I have to say that the finish in terms of decoration is fairly utilitarian. That aside, it contains 35 jewels, regulated at six positions and three temperatures; this compares favourably with COSC, which I believe requires testing in 5 positions and two temperatures (Seiko’s additional temperature is one that is intended to match the conditions on the wrist). The daily variation is between -3 to +5 seconds per day (yes, even better than COSC, which of course permits a variation of between -4 to +6 seconds). The 9S65 beats 28,800 times per hour and provides a very good power reserve of 72 hours.

Finally, the obligatory photos…

I’ve been after a Grand Seiko SBGR061 for a while now, and it just so happens that circumstances resulted in a game of postman’s knock this morning.

First impressions, having only previously owned a vintage GS? Very, very good build quality and the knowledge that wherever you look the finish will be perfect. The movement is nicely decorated (whilst not being in the league of my GO or JLC) and the cream dial sets off the hands and indices to perfection. In fact, the dial really is very striking.

At 39.5mm and with a surprising weight for it’s size, I’d say it’s as large as it can get away with without becoming something it wasn’t intended to be. I really like it a lot, especially with the OEM brown crocodile strap and GS deployant. No aftermarket replacements for this one.

Once upon a time, there was a gorgeous vintage (1968) Grand Seiko 61GS that I owned – and loved – for quite a while. I’d had it lovingly restored to virtually NOS condition, but circumstances sadly meant that I had to let it go. In fact, it went to a friend, but he also found that he had to move it on some months ago. That might have been the end of the story.

It wasn’t, however, and with a little help I tracked it down to it’s then-current owner. Weeks of correspondence followed but my persistence paid off and culminated in the watch being handed back to its “rightful” owner yesterday.

Losing this one was without doubt my biggest watch-related regret. The 61GS was probably Grand Seiko’s finest vintage hour (pun intended) save for the Very Fine Adjusted, which was based on the same engine anyway. It houses a gorgeous 36,000bph high-beat movement in the most classic of case/dial combinations, with sumptuous applied indices and logo on a sunburst dial.

To say I’m overjoyed would be an understatement.

In one week, “my” Grand Seiko 61GS (6146-8000) will be back with its rightful owner.