Just when you thought it was safe…

Well, I’m certainly happy this morning – after all the chopping and changing of late, the ins and outs have come to an end for now with a watch arrival that resolves one of my more painful regrets over the last couple of years.

The “Great White” Sea Dweller was released in 1977, and achieved it’s monicker as a consequence of Rolex’s decision to do away with the red font on the DRSD and replace it with… well, white. Also gone was the reference to the Submariner on the dial and the engraving on the case back was changed slightly. However, to my knowledge the same case was used and of course they came with the wonderful Tropic 39 Superdome crystal.

This one dates to 1980, and has a NOS crystal to set off the flawless dial (a Mark II, identifiable from the italic “ft” and “m” and the closed 6). The case is in great shape with fat lugs and sharp bevels, and the only think it could do with is an insert change as it’s wearing a service replacement. In fact, I’ve already bought a ghost insert for it, which should give the watch a pretty unique appearance.

I’m absolutely thrilled with this – my last Great White was a beauty but I actually think this one is even nicer. It’s pretty obvious that I’ve moved away from vintage Rolex sports watches for now, but to my mind the 1665 is the greatest watch that Rolex have ever produced and the opportunity to acquire another was irresistible.

Struck by lightning

The Milgauss is one of the more interesting watches in the Rolex line-up, and also one of the most underestimated. It’s history goes back some 60 years, when (according to some sources) Rolex was commissioned by CERN to produce a watch that could be safely worn by scientists that were working in the field of electromagnetic technology (see what I did there?) – something that was becoming increasingly commonplace. Now, the problem was that mechanical watches are regulated by a balance wheel and hairspring, and magnetic fields don’t do them any favours. In fact, a watch that’s been subjected to a magnetic field will often run too fast or too slow; in fact, if the force is strong enough, it’ll likely stop running altogether.

Rolex’s answer to this problem was the original Milgauss, released in 1954 at much the same time as IWC released the first Ingenieur – another watch designed with antimagnetic properties. Both utilised a Faraday Cage to enclose the movement, the idea being that it would divert a magnetic field and protect the environment inside it (which included the balance wheel and hairspring). In fact, the name “Milgauss” is derived from the French word mille (meaning 1,000) and gauss (the unit of meaurement for the strength of magnetic fields), and the Milgauss was able to withstand fields of up to 1000 gauss.

The early models were not particularly popular, and production actually ceased in 1988. However, the line-up included one watch that is now a vintage classic – the 1019, which these days can go for upwards of £20k in decent condition…

As well as the original 6451 (check out the lightning-bolt second hand… look familiar?)

So, fast forward a few decades and we come to the current line-up – three models of quite different appearance but all featuring the same technology. Inside is a calibre 3131 movement that’s unique to this model (and which is essentially a thinner version of the 3130); a Blu Parachrom hairspring which is completely resilient to magnetic interference; and a Faraday Cage/inner case back – just to make absolutely sure of it’s antimagnetic capabilities. Aside from that, though, it really is a quite beautifully engineered watch, with a fit and finish that puts some of the other models to shame. It’s heavy too – heavier even than the Sea dweller, whilst still being supremely comfortable on the wrist.

The reason that I’m wittering on about the Milgauss is actually because I picked one up today; not quite on impulse as I’ve been looking at them for a while now (and made a couple of unsuccessful attempts to buy one previously). It somehow manages to be both sporty and dressy at the same time, and the GV (with a green-tinted crystal) as also unusual enough that you won’t see anything else even vaguely similar. I’m really happy with it, especially as this one came unworn and fully-stickered as genuine NOS. Anyway, here’s a few shots taken very quickly when I got home this afternoon, and before I popped out again for dinner. I’ll take some more at some point with a little more care and attention to lighting, but I think these give a pretty good impression of just how nice a watch it is. Oh, and you’ll see that it also has an engraved case back – the only Rolex aside from the Sea Dweller to do so.

Oh, I nearly forgot…

I also picked up a watch I’ve had my eye on for some time – a Damasko DC66. This is a proper tool watch, 42mm without the crown and housing a workhorse Valjoux 7750 movement. The technical spec (as is the case with Damasko watches generally) is very impressive:

Case:
-Stainless steel, nickel-free, bead-blasted
-Ice-hardened to 60 HRC or 710 Vickers
-Integrated anti-magnetic inner cage, anti-magnetic to 80,000 A/m or 100 mT
-Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides
-Crystal gasket resistant to UV radiation
-Solid screw back with O-ring Viton™ gasket
-All gaskets made from Viton™ which offers a premium chemical resistance and which is superior to most other materials used in the watch industry
-New patented crown and pusher system, crown stem and pusher shafts are machined with minimal tolerances and leave almost no gap between pusher/crown and case, but nevertheless do not scratch. Crown and pushers are also equipped with a permanent lubrication that eliminates friction
-Crown, pushers, and tubes hardened to 60 HRC
-Bi-directional rotating bezel with exact minute engagement working with patented ceramic bearing
-Protected from the intrusion of dust by gasket element
-Hardened and scratchproof bezel insert finished with extremely abrasion-proof Damest layer with a hardness of 2500 HV
-Water resistant to 10 bars/100 metres according to DIN 8310
-Crystal has a secure fit even in case of a sudden negative pressure

That’s all quite something, and on the wrist it’s both exceptionally comfortable and very legible – despite that fact that there’s a fair bit happening on the dial. Anyway, here’s a couple of very quick shots, the second of which gives a taste of an AR coating that looks very blue in certain light.

An eye for an eye

I was more than happy with my Heuer GMT, but when the opportunity arose to pick up another that was almost NOS I decided to go ahead with what is effectively a straight swap (not in terms of price though, sadly). This one won’t be going anywhere, as I doubt it’s even possible to find an example of this relatively uncommon watch in better condition. I do fancy both the 11063 and a 2446C versions to go with it, but I’m reducing numbers. In fact…

I’m reducing numbers
I’m reducing numbers
I’m reducing numbers
I’m reducing numbers
I’m reducing numbers
I’m reducing numbers
I’m reducing numbers…

A quick walk

I managed to tweak my back yesterday, and as it hurts like you-know-what to sit down I decided to go for a nice walk for an hour or so. I don’t live in a very photogenic area so finding shots can be difficult, but I was kind of happy with these. Well, less unhappy than with the others.